The guides

I make so many references to our guides I guess I should post a picture of them. Ibrim, next to me on the left and Hamadi next to Gary on the right. They made our trip so great with their knowledge, friends and patience.

Minarets and Mosques

I found the minarets attached to the Mosques fascinating and beautiful. Where ever you went, from the biggest most populated city, Casa Blanca, to the tiniest of villages in the Sahara there were minarets to call to prayer. The call to prayer was very cool and I never tired of it. The sing songy sometimes very loud call was like a clock for us. Five times a day. This is a Minaret in Tarradant. Ibrim, after about day 5 said to Gary, "I think she really likes the mosques. " This is the largest Mosque in Morocco. The Mohammad V can hold about 15 thousand people

This is a Minaret in a very small village in the Sahara west of Mahmid

I am not sure of the village but it was in the High Atlas Mts

Even in the bustling Marrakesh square.

This is "our" Minaret in Essouira. It is the veiw from our Riad roof terrace.

Another in Casa Blanca

Mohammad V in Casa Blanca. This is the first clear view as we walked to it from our hotel.

In case you aren't tired of Morocco yet

Oasis in the Sahara. Nomads live here in September to harvest the dates Yes, we did ride camels

The Sahara

The only one up at sunrise at Erg Chigaga Gary rise and shine after a rough night in the dry and windy Sahara

From the top of Erg Chigaga, one of the highest dunes in the Sahara, looking down at our Berber camp.

Loading the camels after we toured and had tea with a man at a Berber Kasbah.

Too windy, had to stop for Ibrim and Mohamid to rest. It's not easy leading camels through this.

Heading out to the 3 village Kasbahs, Arabic, Bedouin and Berber that we visited by camel

Meeting the camels and our camel whisperer Mohamid.

Last stop before Mahmid and the Sahara. Sign says 52 days by camel to Timbuktu.

Ali Baba on his faithful steed Farrari

What a place. We started from Hassan's lodge in Mahmid, a small village close to the Algeria border in southeast Maroc. We arrived in the evening and had dinner and tea and were really exhausted from the long and full of adventure drive over the hight atlas Mts to get there. I am just posting a bunch of pictures. I will write about them later.

Morocco continued

We spent a total of 5 days in Essaouira. 2 days before the Sahara and 3 days after our tour of southern Maroc. It was our home base so to speak. We stayed in a Riad close to the Bab just inside the Medina. Rashid and Abdul took very good care of us. Every morning I would wake to the sound of oranges being made into juice. We would climb the stairs to the roof and have breakfast with the bees. The bees were mad about the jam and we found tricky ways to distract them. Funny thing about meals in Morocco, only about 1/2 the time were we handed a menu. Mostly they would just start bringing food. Breakfast was always whatever they were serving but totally delicious. Often at lunch or dinner after we had been served olives, bread and some other appetizer type food the proprietor would simply ask us what we wanted. To our quizzical stare he would make suggestions. Food was such a big part of the experience. For most of the trip we wondered why they served so much bread. Then when we had lunch with a local family we realized it was their fork, spoon and knife. they used the bread to scoop the tagine into their mouths. So, when you hear that they eat with their hands that is only partially true.

Essaouira is a coastal town on the Atlantic and there is a port with a lot of fishing activity going on. Down the boardwalk to the beach we found kids and adults playing soccer in the sand. They played soccer everywhere there was a patch of flat space. They carried the goal with them. This is the view from the roof terrace at Riad Nakhla to the soccer space next to the Mosque.

Morocco stories

We stopped at a pottery cooperative in Tarradant. The guy at the potter's wheel took us through the kasbah where the approximately 200 people in the co op live. The bottom floor of the mud and brick structure is where the families gather to hang out, eat and try to stay cool because being on the bottom floor, it is the coolest place. In some of these type places they also keep their animals on the first floor. As you wind up the stairs and dark passages there are another set of rooms where they paint the pottery. Mostly women do the painting and the men throw the pots. The top floor is where the Fatimas cook. The kitchens are usually on the top because they are going to be cooking and the smoke and heat will rise out of the building better.

I have a new monitor (thanks Charlie) so I can see more clearly the pictures to go with the story. I have decided not to get too hung up on chronology because actually there isn't much sense in that. the whole trip was a rolling adventure that I feel I can take pieces and put in other places and it will not add or take away from the experience. Stepping into such a foreign place allowed me to forget about the time and structure of our vacation.

I took so many pictures from the car, Toyota landcruiser. This car could go anywhere thanks to the excellent driving of Hamadi, seen here. Even with his 'malady' he kept us on the road and on time.

Hamadi had a bad cough that had been hanging on for quite some time due to the springtime weather we were told. To me it appeared it was moving towards pneumonia and we were worried about his well being. Finally one morning in Tarradant the boys showed up with Hamadi's Dad who lived near by and told us Hamadi was going to the hospital and would be back in 1/2 hour. Riiiight, we thought. I suggested Gary, Ibrim and I take a walk around the city while we waited. After we had walked about 15 minutes Ibrim sat down and said we should head back. Fine, I don't know what fun waiting in the hotel salon will be but Ok. As we walked up the road to the hotel, lo and behold Hamadi and Dad drive up! He has been to the hospital, seen a doctor, got a chest xray which he had with him and had his perscription for meds. Needless to say we were quite amazed at the speedy service. Hamadi's Dad was a wonderful guy who spoke only Berber so was able to give Hamadi the dad lecture to take care of himself and do as the Dr said. He translated the perscriptions for him and we dropped him off downtown and we were on our way.

Well I have succeeded in uploading a few pictures :) it was hit or miss on selection due to not knowing what I was choosing. Enjoy

Back in Essouira after an amasing 4 day tour through south west Morocco. Sadly said goodbye to our wonderful driver and guide yesterday, but looking forword to some relaxation on the beach now. The boys ran us a bit ragged ensuring we experienced all of the authentic culture of this beautiful country. We spent a day with a close family friend of Ibrim's in his home in Tisnit. We were truly honored to be welcomed into their home for the day. Yesterday we met up with a couple nomad's tending camels south of Essaoira. I bravely tried some fresh camel milk. We visited a beautiful Oasis between Tarradannt and Tarfraout. They wanted us to go by "Berber taxi" (donkey) but having experienced 3 hour tour by camel, we chose to walk.

Back in Marrakech after an awesome desert trip. Camel (Ferrari) kicked Gary,
s butt in more ways than one! I believe I am the camel whisperer. The Kasbahs were an incredible experience and the Berber camp was the most perfect star gasing and sunrise spot on the planet. The bad news is that The computers I have had access to so far are not cooperating with my camera so you all are going to have to wait for those. Our Berber driver and Morrocan guide are too good to let go of so we have hired them to take us for a few more days to Taradannt, Tafraoute and more. Makah mushki, Jill and Gary

Salam alekum from marrekech

WOW, we have made it to Marrekech and had much travel adventure. Essaouira is very nice, I have eaten every kind of fish cooked many ways and quite by accident. Stupid on the road is our tag name. I am unable to upload my pictures onto this computer. I will try another way after the Sahara trek. We are having a wonderful time and the people hear are taking wonderful care of us even though they do not understand a word we say nor us them. We all try very hard though and have lots of laughs in the effort. Love you all, Jill and Ali Baba

OK, Packed and ready to go. Sorry Chance and Kitties, you have to stay here with Charlie. He will take good care of you and Caili will be home on the weekends to play.

It is getting close. 2 weeks and counting before we leave the country. many items/tasks checked off our list and several more to complete. Have had many conversations and meetings with friends and acquaintences who have travelled to Morocco and it has been very interesting. Most interesting is that everyone has such a different perception and experience to share about Morocco. I now am excited to have my own experience and realize that it too will be different.

We went up to our favorite Mcmenamins estate, Edgefield, a few weeks back and practiced taking picture of cool shit. I am going to attempt to upload some pics to this blog, more practice.

It is Saturday morning and we are attempting to register our trip with US Gov. first attempt has been aborted. Too many questions, not enough answers... The idea was just to let them know where we would be in case of some major political unrest. Morocco is a US ally, what could go wrong?

Anyway, I like the shopping for necessary gear at REI much better. I purchased some good travelling shoes and a super light shirt with nice pockets last night.

Gary was able to talk with a woman who was in Morocco for a short visit last year. She had a great time and stayed in the same place that we plan to stay the first couple days, on the beach south of Casablanca. It is comforting to have the story from a live person who was there. I don't know why but it makes the place seem more real and accessible than just reading the Lonely Planet book and internet blogs...